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Mas Bolivia...

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First views of Bolivia - near Lake Titicaca

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Pre-Carnaval parade in Santa Cruz de la Sierra, Bolivia

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Giant fern near Samaipata, Bolivia

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Lunch-time views near Samaipata, Bolivia

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This is a railroad graveyard just outside of Uyuni - it was our first stop on the tour. I love trains, old rusty things, and stark landscapes so I took a ton of photos!

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These are the flats. Pretty stunning. I didn't get the story behind the pyramid things. I didn't get that great of photos. I have seen some amazing pics with the reflection the layer of water provides.

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Fish Island. I don't know why it's called that. There sure as hell ain't no fish.

And this I believe is when my camera decided to have a "lens error". For about 3 days. So I don't have pics of the red, green, and blue lagoons, the hundereds of flamingos, the strange rock formations, and the forced perspective wacky pictures my group took on the flats. Yet. I'll get some from the others, but have none to share at the moment.

After the Salt Flats trip I headed to Argentina..save that for another post.

Posted by jtrundy 04.03.2010 20:16 Archived in Bolivia Comments (0)

Parque Ambue Ari


View Pacific Circle '09-'10 on jtrundy's travel map.

Before I left for my trip I came across Parque Ambue Ari online. I was looking for some volunteer opportunities working with wild animals. Parque Ambue Ari is part of the organization Inti Wara Yassi, and is a rescue and rehabilitation center for wild animals. Most animals were intercepted while in trade as exoctic pets, circus animals, or rescued from abusive situations.

The focus at Parque Ambue Ari is big cats. Currently they have about 25 cats - jaguars, pumas, and ocelots - as well as monkeys, birds, and an assortment of other animals. I arrived during low season and when the park was in desperate need of volunteers. As a result I got to work with 2 cats, and ocelot named OB and a puma named Neko.

In the mornings we'd wake up about 6:45 and start work at 7am. We had weekly task such as feeding the birds and daily tasks such as cleaning the bathrooms or setting up breakfast. These tasks rotated among the volunteers and were essential to keeping the camp running smoothly. Breakfast was at 8am and we'd start work with our cats at 9am. In the mornings I worked with OB. OB is an ocelot, which looks a bit like a house cat, though a bit bigger and with markings similar to a leopard or jaguar.

OB is an interesting little cat. She came with 2 other ocelots a few years ago, and due to an agreement with the zoo they came from she will unfortunately never return to the wild. The time spent with her was to get her out of the cage for awhile and to give her some excercise each day. With alot of the cats we walk them with collars and leashes, just like dogs. It took me almost 2 weeks to figure her out. Ocelots are notoriously unpredictable, and OB was no exception. The first few days she was fairly affectionate, coming up to me to rub her face on me, or wanting to sit on my lap. However sitting on the lap quickly turns into a full attack with her, so I stopped letting her do that. In the beginning she wasn't walking much, just maybe 20 to 30 feet from her cage, then she'd want to lay down or return to her cage. I realized that the person who worked with OB before me was really letting her do whatever she wanted and never pushed her at all. She is a chubby little cat and needs more excercise. I started not letting her return to the cage until I was ready for her to. All you had to do was stand your ground as she tried to pull on the leash to return back. After a few moments she'd give in and keep walking. Eventually I was able to direct her to certain directions/paths with this tactic. She had a runner (a long peice of rope run horizontally through an open stretch of land) that you could attach her to so she could wander around a bit without you holding the leash. The volunteer before me never used it, but I started her on a routine of starting and finishing each day on the runner. While she was there I would clean her cage up. Then we'd walk, then we'd play, then I'd feed her.

I had a hard time with OB after the first couple of days. My 3rd and 4th days with her she kept coming at me, trying to jump on me and bite my knees. She is small, but strong and it wasn't very fun. She never really did that again, but was less affection with me after that and would try to bite me when I was putting on and taking off the leash. Around the end of the 2nd week we kind of fell into a groove. I think routine is really important for her, and she was starting to understand that I wanted her to walk more and we weren't going to go back to the cage or play until she'd finished her walk. She started to be more affectionate again, and I finally felt a nice bond with her.

Of course, I was only staying 3 weeks so right when I felt like we were connecting I had to leave. I feel a bit bad about that, but was really happy with the girl who was replacing me and knew that OB was in good hands. Here's OB:

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Enjoying the sunshine while out on her runner

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Play time!

My afternoons were spent with Niko. Niko is a puma with a bit of a sad story. She came when really young and at first was doing really well. However when she was out for a walk she was chased by a bunch of chanchos(wild pigs) and ran up a tree. She fell out of the tree and broke her back leg. The leg was not healing properly so she was sent to a vet in Santa Cruz. There she was mistreated and traumatized by the healing process. They do things like keep a bucket on their head to keep them from tearing off their bandages and have people lying on top of her for hours so she won't move while the leg was healing. I guess this is fairly standard, but she was mistreated as well, and became extremely distrustful of people after this.

At this point she is not being walked because no one can easliy get a leash on her and get her out of the cage. A volunteer got her on a leash and out onto her runner, but it took her about 2 1/2 month sof working with her, and it only happened once.

I was put with Niko because they are trying to get her used to more people and to get more comfortable more quickly with new people. The volunteer who worked with her before me (same as with OB) was with her for 3 weeks and never got closer than 6 feet from Niko. I had to gain Niko's trust, and I read the entries in her book from the people that knew her really well. They said that she would never attack you - her response is always to flee. I was nervous, but knew that for her to trust me I would have to show that I trusted her. When I first met her she would just pace and pace at the edge of the cage (I was in the middle), panting and clearly stressed out. To get her to trust me I had to at first let it be on her terms. I laid down in the middle of the cage for a couple of hours. I did this for 2 days. She began to calm down and make circles around me, getting slowly closer, even coming up and sniffing me a few times. At the end of the 2nd day, I sat up and let her continue to circle me. On the 3rd day I sat in the middle of the cage and she was starting to get closer, but never closer than 5 or 6 feet away. There was a toy laying on the ground - a stuffed animal on a rope - I picked it up and she stopped in her tracks, made a chirping sound and came directly to me - directly to my face and sniffed me. All the while I was making encouraging sounds, phrases. The next time she came by she walked directly to me again and rubbed her face on my face. After that point she decided I was ok, and would purr and purr as she walked by, often rubbing her face on mine.

As days went by the affection sessions would get longer, eventually she would even stand on my lap and lay her head on my shoulder for a few minutes. She was so sweet and I feel completely head over heels. She so clearly loves people, and wants to trust you but was just so very scared. I worked on gettingher to trust me and approach me when I was standing, and also began to approach her. We'd also play football (soccer). I'd kick the ball, she would chase it and pat it around. We didn't get really any farther than this with the 3 weeks time, but it was a vast improvment over the last volunteer. I really enjoyed my time with Niko and felt like she really needed me. I think about returning to the park to try to work with her again at some point. Here are some pics and a video of Neko:

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Here are some more pics of the park and some other animals:

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This is Moracha - one of the spider monkeys that lived at camp. She'd wake us up every morning around 5am by forcebly entering our dorm room to come cuddle with someone.

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Baton - a baby howler monkey who also lived at camp, getting some help from Agri at the water fountain. The camp was also home to 4 Bolivian teens, who had much less-than-desirable living situations at their homes. The lived and worked at the camp amd the staff made sure that they went to and finished school.

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Chancho cuddle pile - there were many of these pigs that lived around the camp, including a baby one - Schmelda - who all the volunteers fell in love with.

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Some pictures of camp. I had a bit of a difficult time at camp because I was there during the rainy season. I'd like to think that I'm hard core, but I'm just not. We had no electricity, it rained constantly so our clothes never dried, I was in a 10 person dorm with littl elight and much stank, I had to walk an hour a day through waist-deep water to get to and from OB's cage (the last pic), I got foot fungus from my constantly wet feet, and had hundreds of mosquito bites as well. All of this combined was just too much for me and I left about 1/2 a week before I had planned. That being said - I would go back. Just not during this time of year.

When I arrived there were about 16 volunteers. The highest when I was there was about 30. I hear that now there are 60 volunteers there. The camp takes about 40 to properly function and to allow the cats to have full days with volunteers, rather than the half days we were doing. Here are some pics from a night out we had where we were to make clothes out of anything but actual clothes. We'd head to Santa Maria, and littl etown about 8k away. It had electricity and booze and chocolate. All the things we craved at the park.

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I am really happy I made the time/effort to head to Parque Ambue Ari. If anyone wants more info about the park or wants to make a donation here's a link:

http://www.intiwarayassi.org/articles/volunteer_animal_refuge/home.html

Posted by jtrundy 04.03.2010 19:11 Archived in Bolivia Comments (0)

More of Peru in photos!

Lake Titicaca

Here's a few more photos from Lake Titicaca (I childishly laugh every time I hear this).
They are all from a visit to the floating islands - man made islands out of reeds. Pretty awesome.

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This is cuy - a traditional meat throughout Ecuador and Peru. It's known to us as Guinea Pig!

Posted by jtrundy 17:46 Archived in Peru Comments (0)

Budget accommodation in Peru

Read reviews from other Travellerspoint members.

Peru...in photos

I moved through Peru very quickly. My priority is Bolivia so wanted to get there fast as time in SA is running low. Peru is amazing though and I wish I had more time to do it justice.

Arequipa

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Cusco

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Pisac Ruins (Sacred Valley)

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Ruins at Ollantaytambo (Sacred Valley)

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And, of course, Machu Picchu

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Posted by jtrundy 16.01.2010 19:31 Archived in Peru Comments (0)

Return to Colombia

After Panama City I had to start heading south again as I leave from Buenos Aires in March. I flew into Cartagena, Colombia to spend Christmas in the Caribbean.

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Another gorgeous city full of colonial architecture.

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I completely geeked out over the fake trees outside the city walls and the lighting of the walls. Russell is in there somewhere - he also headed back to Colombia fter the boat trip.

After Cartagena I went to Taganga. Taganga is a small town on the water where there are tons of tourists and tons of diving centers. I completed my Open Water Dive Certification (!) and have some ridiculous pictures of myself underwater in full scuba gear and a santa hat that I will add later.

Taganga had a fabulous hostel (that I did not stay at) with a fabulous cook. Christmas dinner was fabulous and spent with good people.

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I was in Taganga for about a week, which was way too long. I was feeling really ready to strike out on my own having spent only about 1 week of the previous 15 or so weeks actually travelling solo. I headed to Parque Tayrona, a litttle farther northeast up the coast.

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Beautiful scenery, crazy crowded and expensive. But I am happy I got to see it.

Next was Bogota. Bogota was fine - it's a big latim american city - so it is big, noisy, dirty, and can be quite engaging or off-putting depending on many factors. It happened to be New Years' so big dirty city was perfect. I stayed at a lovely hostel (Platapus) where the owner made a traditional tamale dinner for us all. Then I headed to the streets with my new found friends and watched a concert, fireworks, and danced in the streets. Nice night.

The highlight of my time in Bogota was a side-trip to Zapiquira to see the Salt Cathedral. It was designed out of old salt mines and is stunning - particularly with the lighting.

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Interior of the main and adjacent rooms.

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The journey in passed through sculptures/carvings/representations of all of the Stations of the Cross. 2 examples above.

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The exterior of the cathedral - with, of course - a rock climbing wall.

Off to Peru!

Posted by jtrundy 16.01.2010 19:12 Archived in Colombia Comments (0)

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